The Duchess of Bloomsbury Street

Although more years have passed than I care to think about, I am very fortunate to be able to say I once visited London.  My London, however, was not the same as Helene Hanff's, which she wrote about in The Duchess of Bloomsbury Street.  Reading such a delightful book makes me want to travel to London and rediscover it all over again.  (Actually I've wanted to do so long before reading the book, but it just throws it all into high relief how much I'd love to go back).

A devoted Anglophile, Hanff wasn't able to get to London before Frank Doel of Marks & Co. died unexpectedly.  She corresponded with him for some twenty years and published their letters as a sort of tribute, in 84, Charing Cross Road, which I wrote about here.  Although Hanff had been writing for years, it was 84, Charing Cross Road, which caused not only her first real success but she became something of a celebrity on both sides of the Atlantic.  It was thanks to the book that she was finally able to afford to travel to London in 1971, just a few short days after 84, Charing Cross Road was published in England.  Although she had just had unexpected surgery and was still recovering, she couldn't pass up the opportunity to visit the place she had dreamed of seeing for so long.

Hanff's London was different than mine for a variety of reasons, but one that I am envious of is that a small royalty check of £50 or a gift from a relative of $100 meant she could spend not just an extra day, but days or even a couple of weeks.  I can't imagine that would even cover a night's stay in a hotel these days.  Granted that amount of money was a lot in the 70s and even with it Hanff was on a strict budget and willingly allowed her friends and acquaintances take her out for meals so she could stretch her stay out just a little longer.  She was to be met by Frank's wife Nora and his daughter Sheila at the airport and an enthusiastic fan/reader of her book who also happened to work at the London Airport and could see her through customs and immigration.  Along with her British publisher and the names of a few friends of friends she was set to be feted and entertained and met a fair few more people while she was there. 

It was suggested she keep a diary during her stay, which is how she tells her story in The Duchess of Bloomsbury--an entry for each day of her stay.   She notes the things she didn't bring with her that a BOAC (British Overseas Airways Corporation) booklet lists as necessities for a London trip: 3 washable dresses, 2 vests, 2 pair gloves, small (hat)s, twin set, wool stole, evening dress, evening bag, evening shoes, girdle.  "I'd brought three pantsuits, two skirts, several sweaters and blouses, a white blazer and one dress.  The dress was silk, chic and expensive, it had a matching coat and was intended to cover large evenings".  I'm glad she jettisoned the girdle, but the pants actually caused consternation from a British gentleman who "loathed women in trousers".  Said gentleman actually turned out to be quite a find and he and Hanff got on quite well together.  It's handy to know someone with a letter of introduction from King George VI allowing entrance to Marlborough House.  Unfortunately even the King is barred entrance on cleaning days!  Hanff was able to visit places in London and in the close countryside guided by her British friends such as Windsor and Eton. 

"If you're born in the U.S. with a yearning love of classical scholarship and no college education, you are awed by a school in which for centuries boys have learned to read and write Greek and Latin fluently by the time they're in their teens.  PB (Pat Buckley) took me into the original classroom, five hundred years old, and made me sit at one of the desks.  They're dark, heavy oak, thickly covered with boys' initials scratched into the wood with pocket knives.  Five hundred years' worth of boys'  initials is something to see."

She visited a pub called The George, which was enjoyed by the Bard himself, saw plays, was interviewed on BBC radio, ate at Claridge's, saw the expected London sights like Buckingham Palace, The Tower and St. Paul's and of course went to a now empty 84, Charing Cross Road.

What is the saying--we are two countries divided by a common language (G.B. Shaw).  Differences in the way we speak have certainly not changed at all, and the cultural differences she notes are interesting as well.

"People here ask you for 'a light' only if you're smoking and they can light their cigarette from yours.  Nobody would dream of asking you for a match, it would be like asking you for money.  Matches are not free over here.  There are none in ashtrays in hotel lobbies and none on restaurant tables.  You have to buy them at the store, I suppose they are imported and too expensive to fling around the way they're flung around at home."

*****

"Nobody over here says 'six-thirty' or 'seven-thirty', they say 'hoppussix' and 'hoppusseven'.  And 'in' at home is 'trendy' here and 'give it up'  is 'pack it in' and 'never mind' is 'not to worry!'"

"And when they pronounce it the same they spell it differently.  A curb's a kerb, a check's a cheque, a racket's a racqet--and just to confuse you further, jail is spelled 'gaol' and pronounced 'jail'."

And a newsstand's a kiosk, a subway's the tube, a cigar store's a tobacconist's, a drug store's a chemist's, a bus is a coach, a truck is a lorry, buying on time is hire purchase, cash and carry is cash and wrap...".

She writes about Q, her mentor of sorts, Sir Arthur Quiller Couch, who was her inspiration and guided her on her quest for knowledge--no doubt what started everything to begin with, but I think I'll save writing about him until I read Q's Legacy.  The Duchess of Bloomsbury was a lovely, entertaining read filled with Hanff's acerbic wit and wisdom.  I'm happy I finally got around to reading it and will be reading more of her other works.

Comments

[Cath]

You're making me want to reread both these books. Which is difficult because I don't own them. Perhaps I'll dig out the movie.

[Danielle]

Cath--I bet the movie would hit the spot! I've enjoyed both of these--both rereading and reading for the first time, but I wouldn't mind at all seeing that movie again, too!

[Caroline]

I will get to this one soon. 84, Charing Cross Road was so charming. I was also very surprised to read for how long food was an issue after the war, for how long there were hardly any eggs... I had no idea. I thought that would have gone back to normal within a year or so. How naive of me.
It's amazing how prizes change.

[Annie]

I think I'm going to have a Hanff evening. She is the one writer to whom I can return at any time. And you don't have to be American for her writing to make you hanker after London. I always feel the same way.

[litlove]

I did love 84 Charing Cross Road and this sounds every bit as delightful. I'm impressed by her connections, though! How cool to be able to get into all these heavily restricted places. I'd love to read this although I bet it's hard to get hold of. I should try my university library; it may come up trumps.

[sassymonkey]

I read this book last weekend. It made me want to visit London. Though I think she needs to give me packing lessons because I would pack way more than that for a three week stay.

[Kathy]

I loved both "84" and "Duchess"--Miss Hanff's humor and spirit completely charmed me. Both books are little gems, and I'm going to read more of her work. (I think read Q's Legacy years ago, but it's time for a reread.)

[Smithereens]

Sounds quite charming! I sort of had misunderstood that she had come to London in the 1950s, not the early 1970s. Makes me want to reread 84Charing Cross Rd.

[Chelsea]

I got too distracted before I was able to finish 84, Charing Cross, but now I want to re-read it again immediately and this one right after! As a budding American Anglophile, this book sounds like an endearing little novel worth reading immediately! Thanks so much for the review and happy reading!

[Nadia]

I've been wanting to read this one for ages - well, since I finished 84, Charing Cross - but haven't been able to get my hands on a copy. I'm going to have to try harder, because from what you've written it sounds like such a treat to read. And like you, I would love to visit London again - I felt like each time I did, I really didn't get to see it all. Anyhow, thanks for the great post!

[Stefanie]

It's been ages since I read this and 84 and I don't think I ever read Q. I would so love to go back to London too, but so expensive! And there are other places I'd also like to see. Now, how to win the lottery jackpot?

[Alison]

If you ever get a chance, I'd recommend tracking down her memoir, Underfoot in Show Business. It is a really entertaining read and paints a wonderful picture of what New York was like in the 1940s. And it is just as fun to read as her other books!

[Danielle]

Caroline--This is another quickie read. I like her books even though I am a very different sort of reader than she was. I hadn't realized England was still rationing so long after the war either. I think they were left on their own to rebuild and pull themselves out of post-war problems while Germany and Japan had a lot of financial help from the US. Perhaps that made a difference?
Annie--These books are perfect reads that you can fit in in a sitting or two. Even though times have changed it did make me want to go back to London--strangely I missed lots of the more literary destinations--when I went I had just finished a degree in Art History so museums were more my thing!
Litlove--She did meet a number of famous people--theater sorts and people who could take her places other tourists didn't get to go. It was fun reading about that sort of travel. Hopefully you're library will have her book--if you enjoyed 84, Charing Cross Road I am sure you'll enjoy this one, too!
Sassymonkey--She didn't seem to travel with many changes of clothes, did she! Imagine being able to stay an extra week or two on so little money! I'd have let people feed me lunches and dinners, too!
Kathy--I also read Q's Legacy before, but I want to revisit it again. A coworker just this week showed me a book she had to pull from the shelf for something or other and it happened to be a book by Sir Arthur Quiller Couch--Q himself! It was very serendipitous since I just read this book.
Smithereens--I think Hanff's correspondence with the bookshop took place in the 50s, so I bet that is what you had in mind. It took many years before she was able to afford to travel there. Somehow the 70s seems less romantic, doesn't it? But she obviously had a lovely time!
Chelsea--84 is a quick read if you're able to read it in one or two sittings. I read the two fairly close together and it was a the perfect way to do it. I plan on rereading Q's Legacy soon.
Nadia--I lucked out and found a used copy of this at a library sale. I think it is still in print, but I bet there are some used copies floating around, too. Not sure if a bookstore would have it in stock though. I think you could spend weeks and weeks in London and not run out of things to do!
Stefanie--It is very expensive. I might be able to save for a plane ticket, but then there is a problem of hotels and food and the exchange rate is really abysmal for us these days! If I win the lottery I'll fund us both for a little trip! :) However, I wouldn't hold your breath--my luck is awful. :)
Alison--I am lucky as I think I have all her books and recently dug them out of my shelves. It is my intention to read all her books this year. NY in the 40s sounds wonderful to read about! Thanks for the heads up.

[anothercookiecrumbles]

Oh, I loved this book - not as much as 84, but loved it nonetheless. I thought there was an undercurrent of - something - as Frank had died, and Hanff never actually got to meet him, despite him being the person she struck up a friendship with.

I also loved the way she describes London, and how charming the city seems. Living in London, it's something I don't really notice anymore, and I think reading this book gave me a nudge in the right direction. So much one ends up taking for granted when they live in a city...

[Dorothy W.]

You make this sound so appealing! I'll have to hunt down a copy. It would make a great book to read before or during my visit to London (although I don't usually read in this way!).

[Danielle]

Anothercookiecrumbles--I loved this too, and the feel is a little different I agree. There is a charm to 84, Charing Cross Road. This one is funny and I am happy that she was able to finally see England, but it was somehow bittersweet! You are so lucky to live in London--I am so glad I was able to visit, but I could happily go again! :)
Dorothy--If you do get this I think you'll enjoy it. Things have definitely changed since she traveled there, but it was fun reading about the cultural differences and the places she saw.

[Simon T]

I'm sorry to say I didn't like this when I read it - she came across so selfish to me. But I love 84 CCR, and recently bought Q's Legacy...

[Danielle]

Simon--I'm sorry you didn't like it. Maybe Q's Legacy will work better. I read it years ago but I don't recall details now. I plan on rereading it sometime soon.